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A: We are very happy to offer our customers a complete do-it-yourself system. We give you everything you need in one kit to do 380-480 square feet of smooth concrete surface. All the necessary tools are included in our kit. There is no measuring of the ratio for your Part A and Part B. Simply pour all of Part B into the Part A and pour the entire contents onto the floor right away.
A: An easy way to coat the trim work is to mix a smaller batch of the epoxy material at a 2 to 1 ratio (2 Parts A epoxy resin to 1 Part B hardener) and then mixing the remaining amount of product to coat the entire surface area. The coating may be applied in sections at different times by simply coating up to an existing expansion joint or by taping off the area and immediately removing the tape after applying the coating. There will be no variation in color if the product is applied at different times.
A: Absolutely. If you have side concrete block trim walls around your floor and/or concrete steps, the best way to coat them would be to mix a smaller amount of the epoxy at a 2 to 1 ratio (2 Parts A epoxy resin to 1 Part B hardener) and apply it as a primer coating over the concrete blocks and/or steps with either a trim brush or a roller cover. You can also apply a second coating of epoxy, if necessary, due to the porosity of the concrete. If the concrete block walls or concrete steps have dirt or stains, you may want to lightly sand them with a good hand-held palm sander with 100 grit pads prior to coating the areas.
A: We usually do not recommend applying the epoxy past the garage door due to the fact that over time the ultraviolet rays of the sun will eventually cause the color of the epoxy to fade. What you can do is close your garage door, take a black sharpie marker and draw a line where the garage door sits. You will then open the garage door and put a strip of blue tape past the drawn line. You will then apply the epoxy up to that line and remove the tape immediately once finished. You will then be able to close the garage door without having to worry about debris or insects getting onto your newly applied EpoxyMaster floor. If you do decide to coat the outer lip of the garage, we recommend using our non-yellowing EPOXYARMOR High Performance Clear Top Coat to protect the epoxy from the direct ultraviolet rays of the sun.
A: Once Part A and B are mixed together in the bucket for exactly 2 minutes, we highly recommend pouring the entire contents on the concrete in 60 seconds. You will have around 35 minutes to work with the EpoxyMaster once Part A and B are mixed together and poured onto the concrete. Please view our detailed Instructional DVD to view the process.
A: Yes, extreme heat or cold can affect EpoxyMaster during application. EpoxyMaster's polymeric chemical reaction will be accelerated by temperatures above 85°F (29°C), causing the curing process to speed up and making the EpoxyMaster epoxy coating tacky and difficult to apply. Temperatures below 55°F (13°C) will cause the reaction to slow down, thereby increasing the cure time. If you are concerned about your temperatures before your application please contact us before you apply EpoxyMaster.
A: Yes, humidity can affect the application of EpoxyMaster. High humidity can condense on the cooler concrete floor leaving a microscopic moisture barrier between the EpoxyMaster and the floor. Since EpoxyMaster epoxy coating is not water soluble it may not penetrate this moisture barrier and therefore the bond between the EpoxyMaster and the floor may not be as good as possible. EpoxyMaster epoxy coating should be applied when the relative humidity is below 75%.
A: Once applied, the cure time for the EpoxyMaster epoxy is normally 8 to 16 hours, depending on humidity and the air temperature once applied. The cooler the air and floor temperature, the longer the epoxy will take to dry. Epoxy is pressure sensitive during the first 48 hours of application. Once the epoxy is fully dry, you may walk on it in 24 hours, place objects back on it in 2 to 3 days and drive on it in 7 to 10 days. Industrial resin-based epoxy normally takes two weeks to fully cure.
A: If the epoxy has been exposed to colder freezing temperatures for an extended period, you can simply place the epoxy in a warm environment for 3 to 5 days to allow the epoxy to reach a 72°F (22°C) standard room temperature prior to using the product. Do not introduce a heat source to the Part A resin and Part B hardener. Be sure to also pre-mix the Part A resin prior to adding the Part B hardener to it.
A: EpoxyMaster is an outstanding high build epoxy coating. A second coat can be easily applied after 24 hours of the first coat. You must simply lightly scuff sand the first coat with 100 grit sandpaper and vacuum the surface thoroughly. This will create a profile for the second coat to adhere to. Adding an additional coat will create an even stronger surface and increase the longevity of the surface.
A: EpoxyMaster can be applied to concrete, metal, wood, ceramic tile and stone as long as the surface has been properly prepared prior to coating.
A: We recommend removing all sealers, waxes and other contaminants by sanding the entire wood surface with 100-120 grit sanding discs or pads. You should also fill any seams, holes and imperfections with a good flexible acrylic caulk product prior to sanding. Due to the porosity of certain types of wood, we recommend applying two coats of epoxy. This will give the surface better coverage with an overall uniform finish. Using hard plastic baseball cleats instead of spiked shoes will prevent puncturing the wood during application.
A: When coating over existing tile, we recommend machine profiling the tile with an orbital diamond grinder to scarify the tile or an upright floor sander that uses 40-60 grit sanding pads in order to create a good surface profile for the epoxy to adhere to. You can also apply two coats in order to hide any remaining tile grout lines. EpoxyMaster is a high build product and may be applied over itself many times.
A: Absolutely. Using EpoxyMaster as a primer will create an excellent vapor barrier between the concrete and the second coat, eliminating any fish eyes caused by outgassing air bubbles. We recommend adding 15-20 ounces of acetone to the Part A epoxy resin of the kit and pre-mixing it prior to adding the Part B hardener. The ratio is 8 to 10 ounces of acetone for every 1-Gallon of Part A epoxy resin. You will then mix both Parts A and B for 2 to 3 minutes and pour the mixed epoxy onto the surface. Using only the application squeegee, spread the epoxy throughout the surface without rolling it. This method will fill in 95% of holes, cracks and other imperfections. After the epoxy dries in about 12 to 16 hours you may sand any high spot areas or imperfections and apply a second coat of epoxy. This will allow you to achieve a beautiful smooth finish.
A: We recommend removing the tape immediately after applying the epoxy. It will make your life much easier if you remove it after you finish your application. If you wait until the epoxy dries, then you will have to take a razor blade and cut the tape away from the cured epoxy.
A: Uncured areas are the result of the improper mixing of the Part A resin and the Part B hardener. Be sure when you pour your Part B hardener into the Part A resin not to splash on the sides of the bucket. If any of the hardener is left unmixed, then it will not cure and cause tacky and soft areas on your floor. We also recommend not placing the bucket upside down to use up any remaining epoxy on the bottom of the pail. Leaving the bucket upside down in order to use up the remaining material could result in a risk of unmixed hardener that may be on the sides of the pail dripping onto the flooring area. If you do have an area of uncured material, simply scrape off the uncured material and scuff sand the area with 60-80 grit sandpaper and then recoat the area.
A: No, EpoxyMaster's hard, durable surface will last for many years under normal circumstances.